绪章绪论

介绍了纺织材料的概念、纺织材料的分类，以及纺织产业的发展。 The concept and classification of textile materials and the development of textile industry are introduced.

●0.1绪论 Introduction

介绍了纺织材料的概念、纺织材料的分类，以及纺织产业的发展。 The concept and classification of textile materials and the development of textile industry are introduced.

第一章纤维结构基础知识

介绍了纤维的大分子结构、凝聚态结构。 The macromolecular structure and the aggregate structure of fiber are introduced.

●1.1纤维大分子结构 Fiber macromolecular structure

介绍了主链的化学组成及连接方式、侧基与端基、相对分子质量，以及对纤维性能的影响。 The composition and connection mode of main chain, the side group and end group, the relative molecular mass and the effects on fiber properties are introduced.

●1.2纤维的凝聚态结构 Aggregate structure of fibers（Supermolecule structure)）

介绍了大分子间作用力的分类，以及凝聚态结构的多种模型，并从结晶态结构、非晶态结构、取向结构、原纤结构、液晶结构、织态结构6个方面，来说明纤维凝聚态结构的基本特征。 The classification of macromolecular interaction forces and the various models of aggregation structure are introduced. And the basic characteristics of aggregate structure are explained from six aspects: crystalline structure, amorphous structure, orientation structure, fibril structure, liquid crystal structure and texture structure.

●1.3纤维结构测试方法 Testing methods for fiber structure

介绍了纤维结构测试的几种常用方法及其应用。Several common methods for testing the structure of fibers and their applications are introduced.

第二章纺织纤维的形态及基本性质

介绍了纤维的细度、长度、卷曲与吸湿性。 The fineness, length, crimp and moisture absorption of fiber are introduced.

●2.1纤维的细度 Fiber fineness

介绍了纤维的细度指标的表示方法、纤维细度的测定，以及纤维细度对纤维、纱线及织物的影响。 The expression methods of fiber fineness, the measurement of fiber fineness and the effects of fiber fineness on fiber, yarn and fabric, are introduced.

●2.2纤维的长度 Fiber length

介绍纤维长度的定义、纤维长度指标、纤维长度的测定，以及长度与成纱质量、纺纱工艺的关系。 The definition, index, measurement of fiber length, and the relationship between fiber length and yarn quality, spinning process, are introduced.

●2.3纤维的卷曲 Fiber crimp

介绍了纤维卷曲产生的原因和纤维卷曲性能的指标。 The reasons for fiber crimp and the index of fiber crimp are introduced.

●2.4纤维的吸湿性

介绍了纤维的吸湿指标、纤维的吸湿机理、吸湿滞后性，以及影响纤维吸湿的因素。 The indexes of moisture absorption, the moisture absorption mechanism of fibers, the moisture absorption hysteresis and the factors affecting moisture absorption of fibers, are introduced.

●2.5纤维的拉伸强度 Tensile strength of fibers

介绍了标准测试条件和纤维拉伸指标体系。 The standard test conditions and the fiber tensile index system are introduced.

第三章植物纤维

植物纤维是纤维素与各种营养物质结合生成的丝状或者絮状物，广泛存在于植物秆茎、根系、果实、果壳中。根据纤维的生长部位不同，植物纤维分为四大类：种子纤维、韧皮纤维、叶纤维和维管束纤维。种子纤维主要包括棉纤维、木棉纤维和椰壳纤维；韧皮纤维和叶纤维是指各类麻纤维；维管束纤维是指竹纤维。 Plant fiber is a filamentous or flocculent substance formed by the combination of cellulose and various nutrients. It widely exists in plant stems, roots, fruits and fruit shells. According to the growth position of fiber, plant fiber is divided into four categories: seed fiber, phloem fiber, leaf fiber and vascular bundle fiber. Seed fiber mainly includes cotton fiber, kapok fiber and coconut shell fiber. Phloem fiber and leaf fiber refer to various hemp fibers. Vascular bundle fiber refers to bamboo fiber.

●3.1棉纤维 Cotton Fiber

棉纤维是人类使用的天然纤维中最重要的纺织纤维，具有悠久的发展史。在本节，将介绍棉纤维的分类、形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Cotton fiber is the most important textile fiber among the natural fibers used by human beings, and has a long history of development. In this section, the classification, morphological characteristics and main performances of cotton fiber will be introduced.

●3.2麻纤维 Hemp Fibers

麻纤维指的是从各种麻类植物中取得的纤维，包括一年生或多年生草本双子叶植物皮层的韧皮纤维和单子叶植物的叶纤维。韧皮纤维作物主要有苎麻、亚麻、黄麻、大麻、罗布麻等。叶纤维作物主要有剑麻、蕉麻、菠萝等。在本节，将介绍各种麻纤维的形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Hemp fiber refers to the fiber obtained from various hemp plants, including the phloem fiber in the cortex of annual or perennial dicotyledons and the leaf fiber of monocotyledons. Phloem fiber crops mainly include ramie, flax, jute, hemp, kender, etc. Leaf fiber crops mainly include sisal, abaca, pineapple, etc. In this section, the morphological characteristics and main performances of various hemp fibers will be introduced.

●3.3木棉纤维Kapok Fiber

介绍了木棉纤维的产地与种类、微观结构以及物理化学性能特点。The origin, types, microstructure, as well as physical and chemical properties of kapok fibers are introduced.

●3.4维管束纤维Vascular Bundle Fiber

介绍了竹纤维和莲杆纤维两种维管束纤维的提取工艺，结构特点以及主要性能。The extraction processes, structural characteristics, and main properties of two types of vascular bundle fibers, namely bamboo fibers and lotus stem fibers, are introduced.

第四章动物纤维

动物纤维是由动物的毛或昆虫的腺分泌物中得到的纤维。从动物毛发得到的纤维有羊毛、兔毛、骆驼毛、山羊毛、牦牛绒等；从动物腺分泌物得到的纤维有蚕丝、蜘蛛丝等。动物纤维的主要化学成分是蛋白质，故也称蛋白质纤维。 Animal fibers are fibers obtained from animal hair or insect gland secretions. The fibers obtained from animal hair include wool, rabbit hair, camel hair, goat hair, yak wool, etc. The fibers obtained from animal gland secretion include silk, spider silk, etc. The main chemical component of animal fiber is protein, so it is also called protein fiber.

●4.1毛纤维 Wool Fiber

毛纤维是纺织工业的重要原料，具有弹性好、吸湿性好、保暖性好、不易沾污、光泽柔和等优良特性。在本节，将主要介绍羊毛纤维的分类、形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Wool fiber is an important raw material for textile industry. It has excellent characteristics such as good elasticity, good moisture absorption, good warmth retention, not easy to stain, soft luster and so on. In this section, the classification, morphological characteristics and main performances of wool fiber will be introduced.

●4.2蚕丝纤维 Silk Fiber

蚕丝纤维是蚕吐丝而得到的天然蛋白质纤维。蚕分家蚕和野蚕两大类。家蚕即桑蚕，结的茧是生丝的原料；野蚕有柞蚕、蓖麻蚕、天蚕等，其中柞蚕结的茧可以缫丝，其他野蚕结的茧仅能作绢纺原料。我国是桑蚕丝的发源地，已有六千多年历史。柞蚕丝也起源于我国，根据历史记载，已有三干多年的历史。在本节，将以桑蚕丝和柞蚕丝为主介绍蚕丝纤维的形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Silk fiber is a natural protein fiber obtained by silkworms. Silkworm can be divided into cultivated and wild silkworm. The cultivated silkworm is the mulberry, and its cocoon is the raw material of raw silk. Wild silkworms include tussah, castor silkworm, giant silkworm, etc. Among them, the tussah cocoon can be reeled, while the cocoons of other wild silkworms can only be used as silk spinning raw materials. China is the birthplace of mulberry silk, which has a history of more than 6000 years. Tussah silk also originated in China. According to historical records, it has a history of more than 3000 years. In this section, the morphological characteristics and main performances of silk fiber will be introduced mainly with mulberry silk and tussah silk.

●4.3蜘蛛丝Spider Silk

介绍了蜘蛛丝的分类、组成、结构、性能、应用领域以及人工生产蜘蛛丝的方法。The classification, composition, structure, properties, application fields of spider silk, as well as the methods for artificial production of spider silk, are introduced.

第五章化学纤维

化学纤维是指以天然或合成的高分子化合物为原料，经过化学方法及物理加工制成的纤维。化学纤维的优点是强力大，耐磨、弹性较好，不易发霉和被蛀，耐用性好，保形性好。现在，化学纤维是社会经济发展中的重要物质资源。根据原料、加工方法和组成成分的不同，化学纤维可以分为再生纤维、半合成纤维、合成纤维和无机纤维（人造无机纤维）。 Chemical fiber refers to the fiber made from natural or synthetic polymer compounds through chemical and physical processing. The advantages of chemical fiber are strong, wear-resistant, good elasticity, not easy to mold and be eaten, good durability, good shape retention. Now, chemical fiber is an important material resource in social and economic development. According to different raw materials, processing methods and components, chemical fibers can be divided into regenerated fibers, semi synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers and inorganic fibers (man-made inorganic fibers)

●5.1再生纤维素纤维 Regenerated Cellulose Fiber

再生纤维素纤维是指用木材、棉短绒、甘蔗渣等纤维素为原料制成的结构为纤维素II的再生纤维。目前生产的主要是黏胶纤维，此外还有铜氨纤维等。在本节，将主要介绍黏胶纤维和铜氨纤维的形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Regenerated cellulose fiber refers to the regenerated fiber with cellulose II structure made of cellulose such as wood, cotton linter and bagasse. At present, the main production is viscose fiber and cuprammonium fiber. In this section, the morphological characteristics and main performances of viscose fiber and cuprammonium fiber will be introduced.

●5.2聚乳酸纤维 Polylactic Acid Fiber (PLA)

聚乳酸纤维是以玉米、木薯等植物中提取的淀粉为原料，经发酵转化成乳酸后聚合，再经纺丝而制成的合成纤维。它的合成原料来自天然，而且其自身可以生物降解回归大自然，因此聚乳酸纤维的开发与应用是人类对自然界碳循环的一种和谐参与。在本节，将介绍聚乳酸纤维的形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Polylactic acid fiber is a synthetic fiber made from starch extracted from corn, cassava and other plants, which is transformed into lactic acid by fermentation, polymerized, and then spun. Its synthetic raw materials come from nature, and it can be biodegradable and return to nature. Therefore, the development and application of polylactic acid fiber is a harmonious participation of human beings in the natural carbon cycle. In this section, the morphological characteristics and main performances of polylactic acid fiber will be introduced.

●5.3聚酰胺纤维 Polyamide Fiber (PA)

聚酰胺纤维是合成纤维的主要品种之一，是指其分子主链由酰胺键连接的一类合成纤维。在本节，将主要介绍脂肪族聚酰胺纤维的形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Polyamide fiber is one of the main varieties of synthetic fiber, which refers to a kind of synthetic fiber whose molecular main chain is connected by amide bond. In this section, the morphological characteristics and main performances of aliphatic polyamide fibers will be introduced.

●5.4再生蛋白纤维

介绍了再生蛋白质纤维的定义、种类、性能及应用。This section introduces the definition, types, properties, and applications of regenerated protein fibers.

●5.5其他再生纤维 Other regenerated fibers

介绍了除再生纤维素和再生蛋白质之外的其他再生纤维，主要包括甲壳质纤维、壳聚糖纤维、海藻纤维的制备方法、性能和应用。This section introduces the preparation methods, properties, and applications of other regenerated fibers, including chitin fibers, chitosan fibers, and alginate fibers, in addition to regenerated cellulose fibers and regenerated protein fibers.

●5.6差别化纤维 Differentiated fibers

介绍了差别化纤维的定义、加工方法及差别化纤维的主要类别和性能优势。 This section introduces the definition, processing methods, main categories, and performance advantages of differentiated fibers.

●5.7醋酯纤维Acetate Fiber

介绍了醋酯纤维的基本概念、制造工艺、分类、物理化学性质及应用领域。The basic concept, manufacturing process, classification, physical and chemical properties, and application fields of acetate fibers are introduced.

●5.8聚酯纤维 Polyester fiber

介绍了聚酯纤维的定义与分类、发展历程，及其物理化学特性和应用领域。The definition and classification of polyester fibers, their development history, as well as their physical and chemical properties and application fields are introduced.

●5.9高性能纤维

介绍了几种以有机高分子为材料的高性能纤维的结构、性能及应用。

第六章无机纤维

无机纤维包括天然无机纤维和人造无机纤维。天然无机纤维主要有石棉；人造无机纤维包括玻璃纤维、碳纤维、金属纤维、陶瓷纤维等。 Inorganic fibers include natural inorganic fibers and man-made inorganic fibers. Natural inorganic fibers mainly include asbestos. Man-made inorganic fibers include glass fiber, carbon fiber, metal fiber, ceramic fiber, etc.

●6.1石棉纤维 Asbestos Fiber

石棉纤维是具有高抗张强度、高挠性、耐化学和热侵蚀、电绝缘和具有可纺性的天然硅酸盐类矿物产品。在本节，将介绍石棉纤维的分类、形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Asbestos fiber is a natural silicate mineral product with high tensile strength, high flexibility, chemical and thermal resistance, electrical insulation and spinnability. In this section, the classification, morphological characteristics and main performances of asbestos fibers will be introduced.

●6.2玻璃纤维 Glass Fiber

玻璃纤维是指高温熔融状玻璃，在拉引力、离心力或喷吹里的作用下形成的极细的纤维状或丝状的玻璃材料。在本节，将介绍玻璃纤维的分类、形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Glass fiber refers to the very fine fibrous or filamentous glass material formed by high-temperature molten glass under the action of pulling force, centrifugal force or injection. In this section, the classification, morphological characteristics and main performances of glass fibers will be introduced.

●6.3碳纤维 Carbon Fiber

碳纤维是指纤维化学组成中碳元素占总质量90%以上的纤维，具有高比强度、高比模量、耐疲劳、质轻耐磨蚀、耐高温、耐摩擦、导电性能好、热膨胀系数小等一系列优异性能。在本节，将主要介绍碳纤维的分类、形态特征及其主要性能特点。 Carbon fiber refers to the fiber whose carbon element accounts for more than 90% of the total mass in the chemical composition of fiber. It has a series of excellent properties, such as high specific strength, high specific modulus, fatigue resistance, light weight, abrasion resistance, high temperature resistance, friction resistance, good electrical conductivity, low coefficient of thermal expansion and so on. In this section, the classification, morphological characteristics and main performances of carbon fibers will be introduced.

●6.4金属纤维 Metal fiber

介绍了金属纤维的基础特性、制备技术以及应用领域。The basic characteristics, preparation techniques and application fields of metal fibers were introduced.

●6.5玄武岩纤维 Basalt fiber

介绍了玄武岩纤维的概况、制备工艺技术、性能特点和应用领域。The overview, preparation technology, performance characteristics and application fields of basalt fiber were introduced.

第七章纱线的分类及结构

介绍了纱线的定义和分类方法。纱线按纤维原料组成、纱线结构、纺纱系统、纺纱方法和纱线用途，有不同的分类和定义。 The definition and classifications of yarns are introduced. There are different classifications and definitions according to fiber raw material composition, yarn structure, spinning system, spinning method and yarn applications.

●7.1纱线的分类 Classifications of yarns

介绍了纱线的定义和分类方法。纱线按纤维原料组成、纱线结构、纺纱系统、纺纱方法和纱线用途，有不同的分类和定义。 The definition and classifications of yarns are introduced. There are different classifications and definitions according to fiber raw material composition, yarn structure, spinning system, spinning method and yarn applications.

第八章纱线的结构参数与性能指标

介绍了纱线的细度均匀度、加捻指标、纤维的径向转移、疵点和毛羽等性能特征。 The properties of yarn such as fineness evenness, twisting indexes, radial transfer of fibers, yarn faults and hairiness are introduced.

●8.1纱线的细度均匀度 Fineness evenness of yarns

介绍了纱线细度不匀的定义、指标、测试方法及分类。 The definition, index, test method and classification of yarn fineness unevenness are introduced.

●8.2纱线的加捻指标与纤维的径向转移 Twisting indexes of yarns and fiber radial transfer

介绍了纱线加捻的作用、指标以及由纱线加捻引起的纤维径向转移。 The effects and indexes of yarn twisting and the twisting-induced fiber radial transfer are introduced.

●8.3纱线的疵点和毛羽 Yarn faults and hairiness

介绍了纱线疵点的定义、分类和纱线毛羽的定义、特征指标及测试方法。 The definition and classification of yarn defects are introduced. The definition, characteristic indexes and test methods of yarn hairiness are also presented.

第九章织物的组成、分类与结构

第一节 织物的组成、形成方法及其分类 Section 1 Composition, formation and classification of fabric 介绍了织物按纤维原料、纱线类别及形成方法的分类及定义。 The classification and definition of fabrics according to fiber raw materials, yarn types and formation methods are introduced.

●9.1织物的组成、形成方法及其分类 Composition, formation and classification of fabric

介绍了表征机织物组织结构的基础参数、原组织种类及特点、在原组织基础上形成的其他织物组织种类及特点。 This section introduces the basic parameters characterizing the woven fabric structure, the types and characteristics of the original fabric, and the types and characteristics of other fabrics formed on the basis of the original fabric.

●9.2机织物的结构 Structure of woven fabric

介绍了表征机织物组织结构的基础参数、原组织种类及特点、在原组织基础上形成的其他织物组织种类及特点。 This section introduces the basic parameters characterizing the woven fabric structure, the types and characteristics of the original fabric, and the types and characteristics of other fabrics formed on the basis of the original fabric.

●9.3针织物的结构 Structure of knitted fabric

介绍了针织物的定义、纬编针织物的结构与织纹组织、经编针织物的结构与织纹组织。 This section introduces the definition of knitted fabric, the structure and texture of weft knitted fabric, and the structure and texture of warp knitted fabric.

●9.4编结物 Braided fabric

介绍了编织物的基本概念、三类不同的三维编织技术及编织物的基本结构参数。 This section introduces the basic concept and structural parameters of braided fabric. Three different types of 3-D braiding technologies are also presented.

●9.5非织造织物 Non-woven fabrics

介绍了非织造织物的定义、分类和结构。 The definition, classifications and structures of non-woven fabric are introduced.

●9.6织物的基本参数 The Basic Parameters of Fabric

介绍了匹长、幅宽、厚度、密度、覆盖系数、未充满系数、孔隙率、透孔度、平整度等织物的基本参数。 The basic parameters of fabric such as length, width, thickness, density, cover factor, opening percentage, porosity and smoothness are introduced.

第十章纺织材料的性能

介绍了织物的阻燃性、外观性能、手感、耐用性、舒适性等性能。The properties of fabrics such as flame retardancy, appearance performance, handel, durability and comfort are introduced.

●10.1纺织材料的阻燃性 Flame retardancy of textile materials

介绍了纺织材料的定性表述、定量描述，以及织物的阻燃性能要求和提高纺织材料阻燃性的途径。The qualitative description and quantitative description of textile materials, as well as the requirements for the flame retardancy of fabrics and the methods to enhance the flame retardancy of textile materials, were introduced.

●10.2纺织品的外观性能 Appearance performance of textiles

介绍了色牢度、折皱回复性、抗起球性、悬垂性等纺织品的外观性能。The appearance properties of textiles such as color fastness, wrinkle recovery, anti-pilling property, and drapability are introduced.

●10.3织物的手感 The handle of the fabric

介绍了从主观感受到客观评价的织物手感研究历程。The research history of fabric handle, from subjective perception to objective evaluation, is introduced.

●10.4纺织品服用的耐用性 Durability of textiles

介绍了起拱、顶破、纰裂、撕裂、耐磨等与纺织品耐用性有关的性能。The properties related to textile durability, such as bagging, cracking, seam slippage, tearing, and abrasion resistance, are introduced.

●10.5织物的服用舒适性 Comfortability of fabrics

介绍了织物的通透性、热湿舒适性、刺痒性、静电与湿冷刺激等与服用舒适性相关的性能。The properties related to comfortability of fabrics, such as air permeability, thermal-wet comfort, prickle sensation, static electricity, and wet-cold stimulation, are introduced.